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A Thin Field of American Gewürztraminers

June 24, 2010
by

Eric Asimov wrote an article in today’s New York Times titled A Thin Field of American Gewürztraminers. In the article he says he was “tremendously disappointed” by the Gewürztraminer’s he tasted for this article but in the last sentence he says:

“I will also keep my eyes open for Bedrock Wine Company, which uses the same old vines in the Compagni Portis Vineyard in Sonoma County that used to go into the excellent Bucklin gewürztraminer.”

OUCH!

We stopped making the Bucklin Gewurz from the amazing Compagni Portis Vineyard in 2006. Quite simply, the wine was too hard to sell. The wine was lovely but it was so disappointing to find out that people were so turned off to domestic Gewürztraminer that I couldn’t even convince them to taste the wine. The overtly sweet and intense floral examples of domestic Gewurz scared everyone away.

The story that best illustrates the demise of the Bucklin Compagni Portis Gewürztraminer goes like this:

I am visiting the market in Oregon and I meet the wine-buyer for a schwanky wine store. The buyer becomes very animated when he meets me and he says how much he loves our Gewurz. He won’t stop talking about it and he says he bought a case six months ago to sell in the shop. He shows me the wine on the shelf. The wine is well displayed at eye level and he has written a nice little blurb about how much he likes the wine. There are 12 bottles on the shelf. He had not sold a bottle in six months! With his enthusiasm, if he couldn’t sell the wine, the wine was not going to sell.

The proprietor of Bedrock Wine Company is Morgan Peterson and he is somewhat of a genus. He is making the Gewürztraminer from Compagni Portis vineyard but instead of calling it Gewürztraminer he is calling it “Heirloom White” It is the same wine by another name without all the negative connotations. I have tasted it and it is very good.

Here is a link to the article

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2 Comments leave one →
  1. Lizanne Pastore permalink
    July 10, 2010 3:10 pm

    Hey! Where are you? We haven’t heard from you.

  2. Ellen Gill Pastore permalink
    July 10, 2010 3:16 pm

    Dear Buckzin: Mr. Asimov just scored a point in my book. That Bucklin Gewurtz was wonderful! I miss it.

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